Crochet History Confidential: The Fascinating Origin Of The Craft

By Jodie Morgan

| Updated:

Crochet has shaped fashion, challenged norms, and even played a role in wartime espionage. Intrigued? Let’s explore its extraordinary history.

History Of Crochet - crocheted shawl in pinks, purples and white on a wooden table

Frustrated Teacher Quits In Disgust, Sells The Farm, Moves The Family Halfway Across The World And… Starts Crocheting

Table Of Contents

Mysterious Beginnings: History Of Crochet

The origins of crochet as we know it today, is more recent than you might expect! Evidence shows it originated as its own craft in the mid-1800s. 

Crocheted edging was often used to decorate lace pieces in 18th & 19th century (shown in many items housed at the Victoria and Albert Museum.)2

The earliest known published crochet pattern was in a Dutch magazine called Penélopé, in 1823. It listed instructions and systems for five types of purses. 



The first patterns for crocheted bags were published in Germany and The Netherlands in magazines in 1835. By this time, patterns introduced two more stitches to create a variance in the single and double crochet designs.

Yet crochet’s family tree is full of fascinating ancestors! Here are some who no doubt made their mark…

It’s hard to narrow down the exact origins and who invented it.

The most reliable and oldest link to crochet is a unique Chinese embroidery technique or the French method of ‘tambouring.’ 

Tambour lace was a lace fabric technique popular in 18th century. It was where you stretched fine netting over a frame,3 and used a tiny, pointed hook to create chain stitches to form patterns over the netting.4



Some sources suggest crochet originated in Arabia.

The technique was reportedly passed along the trade routes towards the Mediterranean and into Europe, having originated in the far east.

In the early 1800s, another often-cited precursor to crochet came about: shepherd’s knitting, along with the shepherd’s hook. It’s thicker than a modern crochet hook but still has a hooked end. It looks like a shepherd’s staff.

A journal entry written by Elizabeth Grant in The Memoirs of a Highland Lady (1797-1830) references shepherd’s knitting. It’s the art of making garments made of cloth by looping string/yarn with tools like a hook:

“When he was not well, he wore a plaid cloak and a night cap, red or white, made by his industrious wife in a stitch she called shepherd’s knitting. She did it with a little hook she manufactured for herself out of the tooth of an old tortoiseshell comb. She used to go on looping her home-spun wool as quickly as fingers could move, making not only caps but drawers and waistcoats for winter wear for the old husband she cared for.”

The Memoirs of a Highland Lady (1797-1830) by Elizabeth Grant

There’s historical proof shepherd’s knitting was practiced in Estonia, The Balkans, Sweden, Iceland, Scotland, and Romania.



Where Did The Word Crochet Come From?

People only started using ‘slip stitch crochet’ to refer to the craft in the mid-1800s. It was only later it became known as just crochet.

‘Crochet’ comes from the Old French as a diminutive of ‘croche’, which in term is derived from the Germanic word ‘croc’, meaning ‘small hook.’1

(The word also has roots in ‘crochetage,’ meaning a single stitch used to join separate bits of lace together, used in French lacemaking in the 1600s.)

When Was The Crochet Hook Invented?

The modern crochet hook is related to a tambour needle and the shepherd’s hook. Crochet hooks have survived from the 19th century.

According to the recent historical record, in 1917 America, the Boye Needle Co. manufactured the first American crochet hooks. In 1923, the first aluminum hooks appeared.



For more, read this article by Nancy Nehring.

Past crochet hooks have been made of ivory, bone, and porcupine quills.

The Origins Of Crochet Stitches

  • The slip stitch, first originating from shepherd knitting, is used as a crochet method and joining stitches together to create rings.
  • The chain stitch, developed after the slip stitch, is the most basic one. It’s used to begin nearly every project.
  • The single crochet stitch is the easiest stitch to learn besides the two first mentioned. (Double crochet stitch in the UK.)
  • The double crochet stitch is a more complicated version of single crochet, and it’s versatile. Used in many situations and projects. (Treble stitch in the UK.)
  • The half-double crochet stitch was developed as a half stitch or an in-between stitch to single and double crochet. (Half treble stitch in the UK.)

What Came First, Knitting Or Crochet?

Knitting came first, by hundreds of years!

The ancient technique of Nålebinding is an ancestor to knitting and crochet. Nålebinding is Danish, meaning ‘binding with a needle.’

The women of the Nanti Tribe (indigenous people of Camisea in Peru in South America) still practice Nålebinding! The technique also remains increasingly popular in Scandinavia and the Balkans.



Nålebinding is often mistaken for knitting, like in the often-cited ancient Egyptian socks found in a tomb as the ‘oldest knitted items in the world.’

For an informative and entertaining video on the the ancient origins of crochet, watch this mini essay by Ella Rose.

From Humble Irish Origins To Royalty

Because of the awful poverty, the Irish needed to make money. Irish crochet lace needlework was a great answer. Introduced to Ireland due to the Great Irish Famine (1845-1849), the Irish used it as famine relief.

Developed in the mid-1800s in Ireland, Irish crochet lace imitated expensive Venetian point laces. The new method was cheaper.

A French crocheter born in 1829, Mademoiselle Riego de la Branchardiere, wrote the first crochet pattern, and published crochet and knitting books. Despite being French, she’s credited for the invention of Irish crochet.



Traditionally made with a thin steel hook and crochet linen thread, it’s produced by crocheting separate lace motifs.

When you finish, you assemble them on a cloth. Afterward, you baste it together (sew together with thread for short-term tacking).

Following, you join the motifs together with picots and chain stitches. Remove the basting stitches. The modern version is with mercerized thread instead of a crochet linen thread. Want an example of how it looks? See this photo.

For more, read Crochet: History and Technique by the author Lis Paludan.

Teachers were taught the craft and taught young people how to crochet in schools. People sent them to show their knowledge to others.



Around 16,000 women were crocheting lace by 1851.

When Irish people migrated to the US, they introduced their crochet skills to Americans. That might be why it’s so common as a hobby!

Since Irish Crochet was a cheap way of making lace, the higher class society in early Victorian Britain considered it ‘below them.’

To make crochet more fashionable, Queen Victoria bought the lace from the women in Ireland who were trying to make money. 

She learned crocheting herself and produced eight crocheted scarves.



She gave each one to veterans of the South African war. Her efforts gave crochet a boost in popularity!

Further Developments In Europe

1844 – The process of mercerization was invented. This is a process added to cotton manufacturing to strengthen it and more durable. This means it becomes a lot easier to crochet with and becomes a more popular fiber of choice. 

1846 – In the UK, magazines published patterns on making Spanish needle lace. The method of making crochet has changed too. Instead of only working through the back loop and the yarn cut off at each row’s end. It shows working both, and the rows worked back and forth and turned. Like crochet today.

The Later 1840s – As discussed in this post, people produced the method of Irish crocheted lace. It becomes a way for impoverished people to make money in The Great Irish Potato Famine.

The 1850s and 1860s – Due to the industrial revolution, things became mass-produced and cheaper to buy.



This includes crochet hooks. It also causes middle-class and upper-class women to have more free time. Crochet became popular as a hobby.

1867 – The popular, and still running to this day, fashion magazine Harper’s Bazaar was founded.

1910–1920 – Due to the Edwardian period in the UK, fashion changed and became more detailed. Popular styles of crocheted clothes and pattern books change to reflect this.

Crochet In The Modern Age

The World Wars – The governments encourage women to contribute to the war effort and crochet items for the troops and soldiers in need on the home front.

After World War II – With restrictions on textiles lifted, crochet is rediscovered as a hobby. It became more popular, as did other fiber arts.

The 1960s & 1970s – Crochet items have become fashionable due to the hippie and other alternative subcultures. In the 60s, the granny square and crocheted homeware appeared and became more popular.

1994 – Gwen Blakley Kinsler founded The Crochet Guild of America. She aimed to encourage people to discover the enjoyable hobby of making a crochet item.

21st Century Crocheting

Crochet and social media have merged, becoming famous among North Americans and causing the creation of crochet blogs and communities.

Previously forgotten crochet techniques got a revival as many more people embrace handmade crafts.

In 2007, Ravelry, the knitting, crochet, and fiber arts forum, is created. People publish crochet designs there.

Creators offer online workshops sharing techniques and patterns to crochet. Generous designers supply free crochet patterns as a way to showcase their work and gain exposure within the making community.

Conclusion

There’s the history of crochet. Did you discover something interesting? As crochet evolves, may the amazing origins never fade from memory. 

I’d love to hear your thoughts on this fascinating topic. Leave a comment!

Looking for more info on crochet? See here.

References

  1. Earnshaw, Pat. 1984. A Dictionary of Lace. [Second edition]. Mineola, New York: Dover Publications, Inc.
  2. Museum, Victoria and Albert. “Border | Unknown | V&A Explore The Collections.” Victoria and Albert Museum: Explore the Collections, n.d. https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O293925/border-unknown/.
  3. “Tambour Frame,” June 13, 2017. https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/tools/tensioning/tambour-frame.
  4. Encyclopedia Britannica. “Tambour | Crewelwork, Needlework, Embroidery,” May 27, 1999. https://www.britannica.com/art/tambour.

Pin For Later

History Of Crochet Pin

Frustrated Teacher Quits In Disgust, Sells The Farm, Moves The Family Halfway Across The World And… Starts Crocheting

About The Author

Jodie Morgan From Crochet Penguin

Jodie Morgan (Author & Founder)

[email protected] | Lives In: Regional Australia

Author: Jodie Morgan is a passionate crocheter and blogger with 17+ years of experience currently living in regional Australia. Taught by her mother, she fell in love with crocheting after her first child was born. When she’s not crocheting, you’ll find her enjoying a cup of coffee with cream, or sharing helpful resources and tips with the online crochet community. Please say hello, or see what she's making on socials.

Crunchbase | LinkedIn | MuckRack | Ravelry | Twitter

Comments

  1. What about latch hook crochet? When did that start? A friend of mine makes beautiful blankets using latch hook crocheting.

    Reply
    • When somebody noticed that a “latch hook” is a “hook.” In fact, what we now call “latch hooking” was probably done with an ordinary crochet hook for decades before the latch hook was invented (or stolen from knitting machines). On the one hand, the latch makes it easier to avoid dropping stitches or catching unwanted ones; on the other hand, as far as I know latch hooks only come in one gauge and you’re more limited in what stitches you can do (several stitches require you to “yarn over” loops on the shaft, and a latch hook’s shaft is way too thin to maintain the gauge.)

      Reply
  2. Thank you for sharing this information! I learned so much. How cool that there is history of women supporting women through the Irish famine.

    Reply
    • Hi Megan, glad to hear you enjoyed reading the article. Yes, time and time again, history shows the resilience of women even in the darkest of times. It’s always inspiring and fascinating to learn about.

      Reply
  3. Thank you for this fascinating history of crochet. Have rediscovered the joy of crochet during covid-19 lockdown at home here in UK. When young, I crocheted shawls, fringed scarves, granny square cushion covers, bags – it was the 1970’s Now I crochet using only wool, cotton & other natural yarns. In ’70’s all yarn was wool … no granny squares this time around. I am learning new stitches !

    Reply
    • Hi Dee. Thanks so much for taking the time to share your experiences of crochet. It’s wonderful that you have rediscovered the joy of crochet. There are so many wonderful fibers to use and new stitches to learn. I’ve recently been learning mosaic crochet and thoroughly enjoying it. Happy Crocheting!

      Reply
  4. Hi Jodie,

    That did satisfy my curiosity. I love crochet and it’s amazing to find out where it actually originate from.

    Crochet definitely helps in times of need and it is still evolving.

    Thank you so much

    Reply
    • Hi Carolyn. Thanks so much for your kind words and I’m so glad you enjoyed my post. I whole heartedly agree that Crochet helps us keep grounded and calm. I too am amazed at what crochet designers continue to develop. Cheers Jodie

      Reply
  5. I taught myself to crochet about 50 years ago, and made many things; Afghans, layette sets, lace table runners, lace collars, wiggly crochet coasters. But I gave it up about 25 years ago after having children in my 40’s (just no time!). I started up again less than 2 years ago and have gotten very busy with it again. I have always loved challenging myself with complex patterns and have discovered wonderful textured patterns using front and back post stitches ( I’m currently working on a cabling pattern). Any idea when/where this technique was developed? I also learned just this week about “planned pooling” with variegated yarns and can’t wait to try that too! There seems to have been an explosion in crochet cleverness!

    Reply
    • Hi Lynne. Thanks so much for sharing your crochet journey. The design elements of crochet are varied and wonderful. Indeed the stitches, techniques and patterns are so clever. I would need to research crochet cabling as I am not aware of when or where this technique was developed. Cheers Jodie

      Reply
  6. Thank you so much for such a interesting article. I had no idea crochet had such a fascinating history. I love doing anything with any type of yarn but always come back to crochet and I have learned so much over the years but this article was a lesson all by itself. Thank u again.

    Reply
    • Thanks so much Bessie for your kind words. I am so glad you enjoyed my article and you continue to pursue the joy of making with crochet. Cheers Jodie

      Reply
  7. Adorei conhecer a historia do croche, na verdade não tinha tido a curiosidade de conhecer quando, como e onde ele começou. Foi muito gratificante agregar mais este conhecimento.

    Reply
    • Oi Maria. Estou feliz que você tenha gostado desta informação. Obrigada. Por favor, desculpe meu português. Eu ainda estou aprendendo.

      Reply
    • Amiguri isn’t really a “type” of crochet so much as it’s a style of critter the Japanese came up with. They can be knitted, crocheted, sewed and origamied…

      Reply
  8. Thank you very much for this detailed and fascinating information! I am really impressed by the various types of crochet! I have never heard of some of them before. Thank you and good luck 😉

    Reply
  9. Muy interesante, apasionante y desconocida historia del tejido a crochet. Gracias por compartirla pues permite conocer esta grata forma de ayudar al cerebro, especialmente en este tiempo de pandemia en que la salud mental corre el riesgo de alterarse al igual que nuestro físico.
    Muchas gracias!

    Reply
    • Hola Teresa. Me alegro de que mi publicación te haya ayudado. Hacer crochet es una fantastica forma de ejercitar la mente y practicar la coordinación ojo-mano. Cuídate. Saludos Jodie.

      Reply
  10. Now how could you get anywhere in “shepherd knitting” if you didn’t have a chain to work it on?

    I also might point out that “Cro-hook” is a new-fangled term for a technique that’s been around; I have double-ended hooks that I’ve purchased (used) since well before the term “cro-hook” started getting thrown around. And one thing that you didn’t mention is that a double-ended hook allows you to work Tunisian in the round, which is impossible with a single-head hook.

    Reply
    • Thanks so much Wendy for sharing your knowledge. I will update my post to reflect your valueable information about double ended hooks and their ability to work Tunisian crochet in the round. Cheers Jodie

      Reply
  11. Dear Jodie,

    I just read your article on the history of crochet and learned a lot.

    I’ve recently wanted to try to figure out more about the Irish Lace during the famine and wondering if I can see something of what my 2nd great-grand parents might have crocheted to keep body and soul together.

    My mom passed away at 100 years old and I learned how to make hairpin lace afghans from her. I wondered where hairpin lace made with a crochet hook and a hairpin shaped loom.

    Thanks,
    Lenore

    Reply
    • Hello Lenore

      Thank you so much for getting in touch after reading my article on Crochet History. So good to hear you learned some things.

      What a wonderful skill to have gained from your Mom, to make hairpin lace afghans. We become deeply connected through our craft. Such an amazing age your Mom reached, I can only imagine how many projects she created during her long life.

      And to follow up your own family history, how it might have been for them and the techniques they might have used. So interesting!

      I’d love to see pictures if you’d be happy to share your hairpin lace afghans. They must be a true labor of love, so much time and effort.

      I still have so much to learn about crochet, I do a little every day, trying out new stitches.

      Again thanks so much for sharing this with us. Cheers Jodie 🙂

      Reply

Leave a Comment